Beguiling Bosnia

I am happy to see Marty when the bus pulls into Mostar. By his side is Lena and they both accompany me to her hostel nearby. Marty and I visit Mostar's most famous site--the Ottoman-style Stari Most bridge. The bridge was destroyed during the war but was completely rebuilt (with its "original" flaws and all) in 2004. I pass a cemetery. The date of birth engraved on the headstones varied, but the second date was almost universally 1994.

We find a cafe called Cafe ABC where I am ecstatic to find some lasagna with actual vegetables in it. Happy day! But I do try an authentic Bosnian meal as well--chicken legs with onions, tomatoes, and a piece of thick bread that feels like a cross between pita and naan.

We board a train bound for Sarajevo. The green-blue river is a mirror reflecting towering mountain peaks. My open window allows a cool evening breeze to circulate inside the train. I haven't been on a train since my journey from Greymouth to Christchurch in New Zealand. I almost forgot how much I love train travel--zooming through tunnels, clattering along the tracks, transfixed by an idyllic landscape out the window. The woman next to me works on a crossword puzzle. How can she concentrate on such an activity with these divine rock outcroppings that stretch from the riverbank to the clouds?

"My girl, I am making a pie for you." These are the first words I hear as I open my eyes the following morning and see Jasmina standing near near my hostel bed. Minutes later she reappears with a potato pie that is both filling and delicious. Afterward, Marty and I set off to visit the Tunnel Museum near Sarajevo's airport. We duck inside a bullet-scarred house and sit on ammunition crates to watch a movie about the tunnels function during the 1992-1995 war. Built in 1993, the tunnel was 800m long, 1m wide, and 1.6m tall. It was outfitted with rails to move carts of supplies quickly. Bosnian Serbs blocked access to the capital on 3 sides of Sarajevo. The fourth side was controlled by the U.N. and where the tunnel was built. The museum also contains artifacts from the war including weapons, shovels, aid packages, a gurney, and photos depicting damage to downtown Sarajevo buildings. It is amazing to think that just 15 years ago, this tunnel was the only artery into Sarajevo.

The quaint Bascarsijla (old city area) is full of cute boutiques and cool sites such as the Latin Bridge, Eternal Flame, and several mosques. Battle-scarred buildings stand near trendy cafes and interesting public art. A child plays an accordion on the street, hoping a few coins will be tossed his way. Catholic churches, Orthodox churches, and Synagogues coexist here. Colorful buildings sit atop hills encircling the city. Perhaps it is due to the fact that I am visiting in the spring instead of the summer, but the streets are uncrowded and the pace unhurried here.

However, two days in any city is enough for me. I am ready to return to the trails for some gorgeous runs!