Other than a minor collision with a cow, my journey over the Bosnian-Croatia border near Bihac is uneventful. The van drops Marty and I in Grabovac, a tiny town about 8 km from the entrance to Plitvice Lakes National Park. Plitvice is surrounded by the Lika mountains and boasts sixteen lakes, forest trails, and countless waterfalls. It's a dynamic place where algae, moss, and the sedimentation of calcium carbonate work to continually change the natural features. The lakes colors can appear blue or green depending on the amount of travertine deposits in the water. I cannot wait to experience this place!
The most centrally located hotel is too pricey, so we start walking toward a cluster of houses nearby where we saw several "Sobe" (rooms) signs during the ride into town. We are delighted to find Lou who speaks great English and has a large room with two beds, hardwood floors, a nice bathroom and free wi-fi for 15 euros per person. Lou's husband kindly offers to drive us to the park entrance on his way to work tomorrow at 7:30am. Fantastic!
I wake to a chilly, overcast day but I am not deterred. The park is just opening as we arrive. At 110 kuna (about $20 usd) the entry fee is a little pricey but that also includes boat rides across two of the largest lakes. Marty, awesome friend that he is, holds my bag so I can go for a run, unencumbered. We agree to meet up later but we are not specific enough about our meeting place and end up running into each other out of sheer luck at the boat dock!
I feel amazing while running. It is one of those days where I feel like I could run forever. I want to explore as much of this unique landscape as possible. Waterfalls are everywhere. Long, wispy trickles. Thick, rushing flows. Tiny cascades right by my feet. They feed into lakes that are green today. Some are emerald while others look like green tea. I spot a small black salamander with orange spots between planks of the wooden walkway and another along the forested "K" trail. I pause at a particularly stunning viewpoint and savor some time of pure peace.
After hours of running and hiking, Marty and I are exhausted. The weather is also changing and rain is imminent. We hike back to the parks entrance. I sleep most of the way to Zagreb, Croatia's capital city. We stay at Buzz Backpackers, staffed by super sweet Andrea, who gives us the web discount even though we did not book in advance. Tomorrow Marty and I will part ways--he heads to Belgrade, Serbia and I am off to Ljubljana, Slovenia. We spent this last evening eating pizza, joking around, and sharing pictures. The next morning, Andrea makes crepes and of course we discuss American verses Croatian life. You might think this conversation gets old but I am having it with people from around the world, therefore receiving a new perspective each time. Andrew worked in the United States for a few years and enjoyed it but she prefers the slower pace of life near the Mediterranean. "Sometimes when you have too many choices it can make you frustrated and unhappy" she observes. Very true, my friend. However, when it comes to the delights of Europe, I am enjoying being spoiled for choice!
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