My accomodation in Ghent is a boat remodeled into the Andromeda Ecohostel. This is the coolest place I have stayed in yet and energy saving to boot. Showers are low flow and sinks biodegradable. Lights are motion sensored. An efficient and carbon neutral pelletheading system provides hot water while flax insulation utilizes passive heat. The common room is cozy with a small couch, cushioned chairs, and interesting books to thumb through. The hostel is run by Liselot--an friendly, willowy, dreadlocked woman I like instantly.
Fellow guest, Steve is in his late forties and lives near Boulder. He is traveling for a year after getting laid off from his software engineering job. We decide to dine together at Liselot's favorite vegetarian restaurant, called Komkomestijd (translation="Cucumber Time") I pile my plate high with cous cous, mushroom lasanga, tempeh, greens, and spring rolls with the best sweet and sour sauce I've ever had. Steve and I discuss travel and his biking adventures (he brought his bike from Colorado!) then wander past Ghent's beautiful churches after dinner.
The next morning, Belinda and I take a daytrip to the nearby town of Bruges. The highlight of the day is our trip to the chocolate museum. We eat high quality Belocade brand chocolate drops and laugh at the sculpture gallery which includes a chocolate puss in boots, Michael Angelo's Madonna, and Obama. Back in Ghent, we spend the evening talking and drinking organic beers Liselot has on hand including Moinette, Jessenhofke, and Blanche du Hainaut. Yum.
I discover the Blaarmeersen area for running, a lake surrounded by parks and various trails. Birds with white and copper colored heads called Fuut land in the water while people carry long boats to and from the water. I see a guy inside what looks like an enormous beach ball, attempting to stand up. The ball reminds me of the odd sport zorbing but on water!
My last night in Ghent is spent with Liselot, Maarten, and two of their friends at the Groene Vallei Feest where we listen to fantastic ska-reggae band, Wrong 'em Boyo (named after the Clash song). A diverse crowed gathers at the front of the stage and soon we are all dancing in the warm spring rain.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Dresden & Berlin
I am so excited to see Katja and Tobias when they come to meet me at Dresden's bus station! I met this fantastic couple in Cambodia and they kindly invited me to stay with them a few days when I made it to Europe. They share a colorful three-story space with five other people in Dresden's hip Neustadt area where a variety of bars, boutiques, and cafes are within walking distance. They take me to Bautzner Tar bar where we listen to Mr. Beckard and the universal air pressure orchestra--a zany duo that thrives on interaction with the audience. The next day we explore the beauiful buildings of Old Town on the other side of the Elbe river. You can see evidence of Dresden's 1945 destruction from the different colors of brick where the original building and the restored parts meet. Over breakfast, Katja and Tobias's roommate, Uli, tells me about the how Neo-nazis gather in Dresden every year to commemorate the air raid of February 13. Each year anti-fascists attempt to prevent the neo-nazis from marching but fail. Well, perhaps the ghost of Kurt Vonnegut was smiling on the anti-fascists, because this year they were successful for the first time. Led by groups such as the Alliance Dresden Nazifrei (Dresden without Nazis), an estimated 12,000 activists protested and blockaded the area. Police finally cancelled the nazi march. Perhaps this is the beginning of the end of neo-nazi strength in Dresden?
I was not originally intending to go to Berlin due to a lack of time. By the time I arrived in Dresden I only had a few days before my flight from Prague to Amsterdam. But Kajta was going so I took the opportunity. I am so happy I did. I went on two very different walking tours--one showcasing the burgeoning street art culture, the other was a more traditional look at Berlin's history. The history tour took me past sites such as Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie, and the site of Hilter's former bunker (currently a parking lot). I am simply facinated by the Berlin wall--the wall itself, the notion of using a physical barrier to contain ideologies, and the effect the previous division has on a reunified Germany today. The path of the Berlin wall remains marked by a double brick line snaking through the city. It is odd to walk along it and see boutiques and coffee shops where armed guards used to stand. On my own I walked past the famous East Side Gallery--a 1.3 kilometer stretch of remaining wall decorated with the work of around 100 artists. I spent hours here just imagining what it would feel like to cross to the other side the day the border opened in 1989.
The other intense experience during my time in Berlin was a visit to the newly opened Topography of Terror documentation center. This museum was built on the site of previous nazi regime buildings. The section of wall here is the second largest that remains in Berlin (the first is the East Side Gallery). The documentation center details the planning, execution, and aftermath of the Nazi's mass murder of the Jewish population and other minorities. Listening to a (translated to english) recording of Heinrich Himmler's speech to other Nazi party leaders in Pozen, Poland was bone-chilling. This second most powerful Nazi member speaks specifically and frankly of the ongoing extermination of the Jewish people then concludes, "We have carried out this most difficult task for the love of our people. And we have taken on no defect within us, in our soul, or in our character." Because despite organizing the genocide of more than eleven million people, the Nazi's were pretty upstanding citizens, you see. WTF?!?
Dramatic history, seventy museums, and a unique art scene are just a few reasons Berlin is a super interesting city to visit. I'm with Bowie on this on-- "Berlin is the greatest cultural extravaganza one could imagine."
I was not originally intending to go to Berlin due to a lack of time. By the time I arrived in Dresden I only had a few days before my flight from Prague to Amsterdam. But Kajta was going so I took the opportunity. I am so happy I did. I went on two very different walking tours--one showcasing the burgeoning street art culture, the other was a more traditional look at Berlin's history. The history tour took me past sites such as Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie, and the site of Hilter's former bunker (currently a parking lot). I am simply facinated by the Berlin wall--the wall itself, the notion of using a physical barrier to contain ideologies, and the effect the previous division has on a reunified Germany today. The path of the Berlin wall remains marked by a double brick line snaking through the city. It is odd to walk along it and see boutiques and coffee shops where armed guards used to stand. On my own I walked past the famous East Side Gallery--a 1.3 kilometer stretch of remaining wall decorated with the work of around 100 artists. I spent hours here just imagining what it would feel like to cross to the other side the day the border opened in 1989.
The other intense experience during my time in Berlin was a visit to the newly opened Topography of Terror documentation center. This museum was built on the site of previous nazi regime buildings. The section of wall here is the second largest that remains in Berlin (the first is the East Side Gallery). The documentation center details the planning, execution, and aftermath of the Nazi's mass murder of the Jewish population and other minorities. Listening to a (translated to english) recording of Heinrich Himmler's speech to other Nazi party leaders in Pozen, Poland was bone-chilling. This second most powerful Nazi member speaks specifically and frankly of the ongoing extermination of the Jewish people then concludes, "We have carried out this most difficult task for the love of our people. And we have taken on no defect within us, in our soul, or in our character." Because despite organizing the genocide of more than eleven million people, the Nazi's were pretty upstanding citizens, you see. WTF?!?
Dramatic history, seventy museums, and a unique art scene are just a few reasons Berlin is a super interesting city to visit. I'm with Bowie on this on-- "Berlin is the greatest cultural extravaganza one could imagine."
2 countries sharing one town
Cesky Tesin/Cieszyn is an unusual town because half of it lies within the Czech Republic and the other half (Cieszyn) is in Poland. The Olza river separates the two sections of town and you can walk between the two countries over a bridge. The town was divided in 1920 after World War I when Poland and Czechloslovakia were created.
I climb to the top of the Piast Tower for a great view (well, except for the rain) overlooking the two sides of town. The woman at the information center shows me the location of two hotels and two "pensions" (usually a restaurant with lodging above it) I choose, Pod Vesi, a decent deal at 400 czech crowns (about $20) and it is only a few minutes walk from the train station.
My room has tangerine colored walls, a clean bathroom, wooden table, and an old school television--the kind you have to physically push in the rectangular buttons to change one of the 8 available channels! Channels 1 and 4 are Czech news, 2 is Michael Bolton singing in Czech, 5 is some car show in black and white, and channels 3, 6, 7, and 8 don´t work. Hilarious! Unfortunately I do not get much sleep during my stay here due to a rambunctious party downstairs that goes on until after 3am. Oh well.
In the morning, I run along the Olza river and discover the fire department having some kind of competition. Teenagers in firefighter uniforms race down the street with hoses then aim the water stream at red targets while onlookers cheer. I never know what to expect to see on a run. I just wish I had my camera to capture the event!
I climb to the top of the Piast Tower for a great view (well, except for the rain) overlooking the two sides of town. The woman at the information center shows me the location of two hotels and two "pensions" (usually a restaurant with lodging above it) I choose, Pod Vesi, a decent deal at 400 czech crowns (about $20) and it is only a few minutes walk from the train station.
My room has tangerine colored walls, a clean bathroom, wooden table, and an old school television--the kind you have to physically push in the rectangular buttons to change one of the 8 available channels! Channels 1 and 4 are Czech news, 2 is Michael Bolton singing in Czech, 5 is some car show in black and white, and channels 3, 6, 7, and 8 don´t work. Hilarious! Unfortunately I do not get much sleep during my stay here due to a rambunctious party downstairs that goes on until after 3am. Oh well.
In the morning, I run along the Olza river and discover the fire department having some kind of competition. Teenagers in firefighter uniforms race down the street with hoses then aim the water stream at red targets while onlookers cheer. I never know what to expect to see on a run. I just wish I had my camera to capture the event!
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Olomouc (pronounced ollamoats)
I walk to the town square where there is some kind of talent show taking place under a large white tent. Preteen girls dance to Michael Jackson´s "Beat it" and the crowd goes wild! Next up are boys kickboxing to a death metal song. I´d love to stay, but it is starting to rain. And, more importantly, I need to find Cafe 87 which is where my couchsurfing host, Petra, and I agreed to meet at 5:30. I find a tram heading to her area, Namesti Republiky, and soon enough the cafe appears on my right. Go me! I am proud of myself for having honed the ability to remain calm even when I (temporarily) have no idea where I am!
Petra and I drop my backpack off at her flat. Petra teaches Irish dance and is currently working on her Ph.D dissertation titled The Mating Habits of Blackberries (Upon hearing this, one of our dinner companions will look at her, confused, and say "Wait, what are you doing with phones?") Her flat is busy during my visit. Victor, a couchsurfer from Portugal is here and so is Petra´s best friend, Misha. Prone to bouts of homesickness these days, I think the more the merrier!
Olomouc is a town of around 100,000 people in the Czech Republic´s eastern region, Moravia. Much as I enjoyed Vienna, I usually want a smaller town atmosphere after spending time in a city. Olomouc is home to Palacky University and has the fun, laid back vibe that accompanies such towns. Bookstores, funky boutiques, and low lit cafes stand near baroque fountains and beautiful cathedrals. The contemporary art museum is free on Wednesday (lucky me!). I like the work of Laszlo Feher whos work features simple human figures against a huge canvas of black, yellow, and white. In the afternoon, I climb the stairs of gothic St. Maurice´s church for a cloudy yet still lovely view of the town.
Dinner at Hanacka Hospoda is a hoot. Petra, Victor, Misha, and several students from Palasky university end up staying there laughing and carrying on until closing. Menu items include smoked pig´s knuckle, chicken a la duck (do you really need both at once?), and something called guttery breah of night of lostice. I order sulanky which turns out to be a rather delicious potato dumplings filled with poppy seed dish. Conversation turns to strange things people have eaten and I am dared to eat the fish eye from the guy that ordered the entire fish. Well, I´ve eaten emu, kangaroo, sting ray, snake, and horse on this trip do you think I eat the eye? Of course I do. By the end of the evening we all think we can speak Czech simply by adding "vot" to the end of everything. Petra confirms, however, that there are quite a few czech words where this is true including flirtovot, relaxovot, sportovot, and telephonovot!
I thought the talent show would win for strangest sight in Olomouc. Then I encountered someone in an orange costume that referred to themselves as "Cookie" and thought "no this is the weirdest." The experimantal jazz band at Ponorka bar where the singer read lines from the newspaper was also a contender. But none of those compares to the most random site of all---sitting next to a grocery store, there is an airplane that has been converted into a bar! The sign says "Letka" opens at 9pm but the door is locked when I arrive shortly after that time. I ring the buzzer and a woman comes and opens the cabin door and motions me to come inside. The decor is delightfully lounge-chic with red seats, leather walls, and big black ashtrays atop hexagonal tiled tables. It´s a plane one can imagine Dirk Diggler and Roller girl partying inside. There is even a small dance area with rotating disco light in the back! I cannot decipher a thing on the menu so I just say "beer" and am given a can of Gambrinus and a tall glass for the equivalent of a buck and a half. I wish someone in the place could speak english and explain how this bar came into existence? What is the backstory here?
Petra and I drop my backpack off at her flat. Petra teaches Irish dance and is currently working on her Ph.D dissertation titled The Mating Habits of Blackberries (Upon hearing this, one of our dinner companions will look at her, confused, and say "Wait, what are you doing with phones?") Her flat is busy during my visit. Victor, a couchsurfer from Portugal is here and so is Petra´s best friend, Misha. Prone to bouts of homesickness these days, I think the more the merrier!
Olomouc is a town of around 100,000 people in the Czech Republic´s eastern region, Moravia. Much as I enjoyed Vienna, I usually want a smaller town atmosphere after spending time in a city. Olomouc is home to Palacky University and has the fun, laid back vibe that accompanies such towns. Bookstores, funky boutiques, and low lit cafes stand near baroque fountains and beautiful cathedrals. The contemporary art museum is free on Wednesday (lucky me!). I like the work of Laszlo Feher whos work features simple human figures against a huge canvas of black, yellow, and white. In the afternoon, I climb the stairs of gothic St. Maurice´s church for a cloudy yet still lovely view of the town.
Dinner at Hanacka Hospoda is a hoot. Petra, Victor, Misha, and several students from Palasky university end up staying there laughing and carrying on until closing. Menu items include smoked pig´s knuckle, chicken a la duck (do you really need both at once?), and something called guttery breah of night of lostice. I order sulanky which turns out to be a rather delicious potato dumplings filled with poppy seed dish. Conversation turns to strange things people have eaten and I am dared to eat the fish eye from the guy that ordered the entire fish. Well, I´ve eaten emu, kangaroo, sting ray, snake, and horse on this trip do you think I eat the eye? Of course I do. By the end of the evening we all think we can speak Czech simply by adding "vot" to the end of everything. Petra confirms, however, that there are quite a few czech words where this is true including flirtovot, relaxovot, sportovot, and telephonovot!
I thought the talent show would win for strangest sight in Olomouc. Then I encountered someone in an orange costume that referred to themselves as "Cookie" and thought "no this is the weirdest." The experimantal jazz band at Ponorka bar where the singer read lines from the newspaper was also a contender. But none of those compares to the most random site of all---sitting next to a grocery store, there is an airplane that has been converted into a bar! The sign says "Letka" opens at 9pm but the door is locked when I arrive shortly after that time. I ring the buzzer and a woman comes and opens the cabin door and motions me to come inside. The decor is delightfully lounge-chic with red seats, leather walls, and big black ashtrays atop hexagonal tiled tables. It´s a plane one can imagine Dirk Diggler and Roller girl partying inside. There is even a small dance area with rotating disco light in the back! I cannot decipher a thing on the menu so I just say "beer" and am given a can of Gambrinus and a tall glass for the equivalent of a buck and a half. I wish someone in the place could speak english and explain how this bar came into existence? What is the backstory here?
Shout Outs
Thank you Diana Rossetti and the Canton Repository for running the story about my trip. I also appreciate the encouraging comments from readers. I hope the story inspires more Americans to embark on international travel!
Here´s a link to the story:
http://www.cantonrep.com/carousel/x1560849407/Around-the-world-in-150-days-A-bloggers-tale
Thanks again!
Here´s a link to the story:
http://www.cantonrep.com/carousel/x1560849407/Around-the-world-in-150-days-A-bloggers-tale
Thanks again!
Friday, May 7, 2010
Vienna, Austria
The first thing I do upon arriving in Vienna is contact Anthony, my friend from Utah I met through couchsurfing in Park City last year. Anthony flew on a one-way ticket to Europe in October and subsists as a street trombonist, first in Barcelona and now Vienna. We meet at a coffeehouse near Stephansplatz to catch up. Anthony is well connected in the couchsurfing community and recommends Tobi who previously hosted him.
As charismatic as he is blonde, Tobi is immediately likeable and so are his four flatmates: Kathy, Sophie, Rafael, and Jacob. They live in a large old building near Rochugasse off the U3 line. The red kitchen walls are full of quotes written in chalk by previous visitors. Postcards from latin america decorate the bathroom walls and the common space is a mishmash of everything from musical instruments, random laundry, to Jacobs folding bicycle. I believe couchsurfers should contribute to the household in some way so I take on the role of tidying up by washing dishes and sweeping the floor. After sweeping Tobis bedroom he says "Thank you, Allie, now I will not have to do that for another two years" haha! All the bedrooms feature wood lofts like the ones you see in college dormitories. I sleep in Tobis room because he stays in Sophies room so the room is mostly used for storage. Up in the loft it is impossible to reach the light switch below, so a long walking stick is provided for this purpose.
Tobi´s love of bavarian music cannot be overstated. Until around 10am, the flat is completely silent---then suddenly the music starts and there is Tobi, dancing, and stomping, and singing his heart out. He burned me a cd of his favorites. He also likes to take guests on adventures. One afternoon Tobi, Kathy, and I waded through a channel of the Danube to a grassy island where we drank Weiselburger beer and relaxed in the sunshine. Another evening, he took us to the beautiful rooftop garden of a building that requires a special key (he has this key). We visit the Naschmarket which is full of mouthwatering food and the adjacent flea market which is full of delightful junk. Tobi buys a babushka candle and Sophie finds polka dot boxers for Tobi. I even attend a lecture about organic farming in Kenya at Tobis school, The University for Natural Resources and Applied Life Scienes. Whether it is political discussions with Rafael, enjoying rainbow and chocolate with Kathy, heart to hearts and hugs with Sophie, or laughing with Jacob, my new friends are super interesting and endlessly amusing. We linger over long breakfasts, randomly break into music sessions, and trade ridiculous insults for fun. Apparently, "Your momma doesnt cook with salt" is a pretty loaded phrase in Austria.
I like to play a game called "What happens if I get off on this metro stop?" Stop at Karlsplatz and hear the amplified opening chords of a song in nearby Ressel park. What is better than a free open-air concert? The stage for "Popfest" is set up beneath insanely gorgeous Karlskirche Church. And who is this spritely love child of Leslie Feist and Dolores O'Riordan supplying vocals and rhthym guitar? Her name is Clara Luzia. The band consists of Heidi on cello, Ines on drums, and Max on piano, guitar, and bass. I have plenty of time on my own to explore while my new friends attend classes or work. Transportation options include Vienna´s efficient u-bahn metro and the free tram around the ringstrasse, perfect for gawking at Viennas beautiful architecture. But my favorite is city bike. There are 61 city bike stations scattered throughout central Vienna. After registering with a credit card, you go to a station, swipe your card, and release an available bike. Rates are super reasonable and the first hour is free. After returning the bike to any vacant "bike box", you can wait 15 minutes and the free hour becomes available again. City bike is a fantastic idea and an enjoyable way to explore Vienna. One evening, I ride along the Danube canal to Volksprater, the amusement park east of the canal. The park is a home to a variety of so-tacky-its-cool attractions, such as the Jack the Ripper dark ride. On this Wednesday night, Volksprater is a ghost town devoid of rider´s shrieks or carnie´s calls. "Disneyland After People" I think to myself. I see people inside of snack shops with no customers watching television. A few people are strolling, smoking, and riding the park´s main attraction--the Risengrad (ferris wheel) The Risengrad factors into the plot of one of my favorite romantic movies, Before Sunrise, which was filmed at various locations throughout Vienna. I ride to the top and enjoy the view of Viennas city lights at night.
I could have stayed even longer in Vienna, but my flight from Prague to Amsterdam is quickly approaching on the 20th and there are a few more places I would like to see. Next stop, Olomouc in eastern Czech Republic!
Advice from a Forgetful Traveler
I used to roll my eyes at perfectly organized people with all their systems and overplanning. I was too busy enjoying my life to obsess over every last detail. However, I have since learned to appreciate how a little organization goes a long way in preventing or overcoming travel mishaps. Below are some tips culled from various sources as well as my own experiences.
- Bring two ATM cards, 2 credit cards, and some cash: I left my only ATM card in bank machine in Phuket. Credit cards cash advances, wiring money, or sending a replacement card via courier such as FedEx to a foreign address all cost money. Next time I intend to travel with two ATM cards from seperate checking accounts. If you have an online savings account, such as ING, you can use this as a way of transfering money between accounts. Credit cards and cash are good backups when an ATM is not available.
- Make copies of important documents & important numbers: This includes your passport, drivers license, and travel health insurance policy. Carry the international contact numbers for banks and credit cards. Also have your card & bank details accessible in case your card is lost of stolen. Leave a copy of this information with someone you trust back at home.
- Get a sim card for a mobile handset with a small amount of credit on it: I use Skype to keep in touch with loved ones, but a cell phone comes in handy when Skype is either unavailable or you do not have time to search for a computer (I am traveling without a laptop) Before leaving America, I suspended my cell phone service but packed my Motorola Razr handset. Then I purchased a local sim card when it was practical. (You will need un "unlocked" device for this to work. If your phone is locked, buy one on eBay or at your destination if basic cell phones tend to be cheap there) In Austria, a local sim card came in handy when I wanted to call my friend Andy and no interet cafes were nearby to skype. It helped me again when I left my credit card in a bike rental kiosk. It took one minute to call and put the card on hold to prevent unauthorized transactions (When I finally made it back to that particular kiosk the card was still there. Thank you kind citizens of Vienna for not stealing it! Good karma is yours!)
- How to get un-lost: Take a business card from your hotel or hostel and tuck it in you wallet. If you wander far away and have no idea how to even pronounce the name of where you are staying, you can show it to a driver who will. This was so helpful in Asia and the ride was usually only a dollar or two. I also use my digital camera to take pictures of street names, landmarks, etc. so I can show people where I want to go when asking directions. Associating a familiar word with a foreign makes it easier to remember. For example, while staying on Kubekgasse street, I thought of it as "Stanley Kubrik street."
- Remain optimistic: Get over the fear of looking stupid. Ask for help when you need it. It continues to amaze me how many people are willing to help (and speak some english too!) Take setbacks in stride. Sometimes there are just days when everything goes wrong. Frustrating at the time, these experiences often make the best travel stories and teach you the most.
Bratislava, Slovakia
After picking me up at the Bratislava bus station, Marcela drives us back to he flat. We ride up the communist era buliding in a tiny 3 person elevator. The inside of her place is more welcoming, all hardwood floors, serene tones, and cozy spaces. My friend Lucia is from Bratislava and suggested I get in touch with Marcela. Marcela and her husband, Zoli, are friendly and I like them immediately. We sip slivovica, a kind of plum brandy, and flip through photos albums from her wedding and honeymoon in Jackson Hole. Lunch is brydzove halusky (gnocci with sheep cheese) at Koliba restaurant where we discuss Slovakia during the communist regime. They talk of elders waiting in line hours for food rations and the limited selection available. However, not everyone saw the economic transition from communism entirely positive. According to Zoli, some of the older generation never really adapted to the post-communist system and consequently feel lost in modern Slovakia.
We visit Red Stone Castle which just happens to feature actors role-playing the castle´s previous inhabitants on this particular day. The highlight of the outing, however, is the falcon area. I learn several interesting facts abou falcons such as how the mother often lays two eggs and kills the weaker bird shortly after birth, yikes that´s harsh! The audience oohs and ahhs as the falcon handlers entice the birds with small pieces of meat. The falcons glide right over us to fetch the food. One brushes agains the top of my head!
The next day, Marcela and I explore old town Bratislava. One fun thing to do is find all the quirky statues there such as the watcher, the photographer, and the man at work. The man at work is my favorite because next to him is a street performer dressed just like him. Cute! My favorite spot in town is a crumbling building where the windows hae been replaced with various recreations of Van Gough paintings. We eat Verdict and Marcela shows me The Diablo Bar where our mutual friend, Lucia used to work! We miss you Lucia!
Marcela and I meet up with her friend Annie to walk around the border town of Devin, where the Morana and Danube rivers meet. This town is signifigant because across the river is Austria and during communism that meant "freedom." There used to be a guarded fence running along the river and you might be shot trying to cross it! With Marcela agreeing to drive, Annie and I indulge in some "Tatras Tea" in the nearby cafe before heading to Bratislavas castle for an aerial view of the city. My last night in Slovakia is spent laughing over food and drink with Marcela, Zoli, and Annie back at the apartment. Thank you Marcela and Zoli for the wonderful hospitality and I hope you will return to Jackson someday for another visit!
Budapest, Hungary
The train from Ljubljana to Budapest passes fields of bright yellow canola flowers. Surrounded by green grass and a blue sky, the scene is striking. I meet a Slovenian couple in the carriage next door. Anya co-owns a gallery with her brother and Yarenay is working on a project to turn a collection of comic books into a cartoon. They live together in Lake Bled and are visiting Budapest for the weekend. We end up talking for most of the journey. I discover they are staying at a hostel called Paprika and decide I will stay there as well if they still have vacancies. They do!
Some interesting new friends I meet include:
- James from the UK who makes declarations such as "I´m not going to be happy until I go home with a love child"and sentences that start with "There´s nothing worse than___" Practicality, being left-handed, and people that refuse to join facebook fall into this category. James has an astounding range of knowledge when it comes to music, and he is not the least bit modest about this talent. Because there is nothing worse than modesty, obviously. James and I wander around Budapest, discussing disappointing ends to otherwise enjoyable movies as we cross the Szchenyi Chain Bridge.
- Andi owns Paprika hostel. She has a mischeivious cat named Tiger who has a penchant for climbing up on the roof and mewing when he´s stuck. Tiger had to be resuced twice during my three day visit alone. Andi just started running and we enjoyed a leisurely run together on Margaret Island, one of the islands on the Danube in Budapest.
- Felix works at Paprika. He is originally from Melbourne and teases me about my American accent. He introduces me to the best gyro I have ever eaten at the House of Hummus and does a fantastic impression of a frustrated Italian in front of Saint Stephans Basilica. Felix rounds up the guests for an evening at Morrisons Music Pub. I am usually not one for clubbing, this place is pretty interesting with its multiple level bars and dance floors. We all end up having a rolicking good time. I tore it up to some Lady Gaga, let me tell you.
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