After picking me up at the Bratislava bus station, Marcela drives us back to he flat. We ride up the communist era buliding in a tiny 3 person elevator. The inside of her place is more welcoming, all hardwood floors, serene tones, and cozy spaces. My friend Lucia is from Bratislava and suggested I get in touch with Marcela. Marcela and her husband, Zoli, are friendly and I like them immediately. We sip slivovica, a kind of plum brandy, and flip through photos albums from her wedding and honeymoon in Jackson Hole. Lunch is brydzove halusky (gnocci with sheep cheese) at Koliba restaurant where we discuss Slovakia during the communist regime. They talk of elders waiting in line hours for food rations and the limited selection available. However, not everyone saw the economic transition from communism entirely positive. According to Zoli, some of the older generation never really adapted to the post-communist system and consequently feel lost in modern Slovakia.
We visit Red Stone Castle which just happens to feature actors role-playing the castle´s previous inhabitants on this particular day. The highlight of the outing, however, is the falcon area. I learn several interesting facts abou falcons such as how the mother often lays two eggs and kills the weaker bird shortly after birth, yikes that´s harsh! The audience oohs and ahhs as the falcon handlers entice the birds with small pieces of meat. The falcons glide right over us to fetch the food. One brushes agains the top of my head!
The next day, Marcela and I explore old town Bratislava. One fun thing to do is find all the quirky statues there such as the watcher, the photographer, and the man at work. The man at work is my favorite because next to him is a street performer dressed just like him. Cute! My favorite spot in town is a crumbling building where the windows hae been replaced with various recreations of Van Gough paintings. We eat Verdict and Marcela shows me The Diablo Bar where our mutual friend, Lucia used to work! We miss you Lucia!
Marcela and I meet up with her friend Annie to walk around the border town of Devin, where the Morana and Danube rivers meet. This town is signifigant because across the river is Austria and during communism that meant "freedom." There used to be a guarded fence running along the river and you might be shot trying to cross it! With Marcela agreeing to drive, Annie and I indulge in some "Tatras Tea" in the nearby cafe before heading to Bratislavas castle for an aerial view of the city. My last night in Slovakia is spent laughing over food and drink with Marcela, Zoli, and Annie back at the apartment. Thank you Marcela and Zoli for the wonderful hospitality and I hope you will return to Jackson someday for another visit!
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