Vienna, Austria

The first thing I do upon arriving in Vienna is contact Anthony, my friend from Utah I met through couchsurfing in Park City last year. Anthony flew on a one-way ticket to Europe in October and subsists as a street trombonist, first in Barcelona and now Vienna. We meet at a coffeehouse near Stephansplatz to catch up. Anthony is well connected in the couchsurfing community and recommends Tobi who previously hosted him.

As charismatic as he is blonde, Tobi is immediately likeable and so are his four flatmates: Kathy, Sophie, Rafael, and Jacob. They live in a large old building near Rochugasse off the U3 line. The red kitchen walls are full of quotes written in chalk by previous visitors. Postcards from latin america decorate the bathroom walls and the common space is a mishmash of everything from musical instruments, random laundry, to Jacobs folding bicycle. I believe couchsurfers should contribute to the household in some way so I take on the role of tidying up by washing dishes and sweeping the floor. After sweeping Tobis bedroom he says "Thank you, Allie, now I will not have to do that for another two years" haha! All the bedrooms feature wood lofts like the ones you see in college dormitories. I sleep in Tobis room because he stays in Sophies room so the room is mostly used for storage. Up in the loft it is impossible to reach the light switch below, so a long walking stick is provided for this purpose.

Tobi´s love of bavarian music cannot be overstated. Until around 10am, the flat is completely silent---then suddenly the music starts and there is Tobi, dancing, and stomping, and singing his heart out. He burned me a cd of his favorites. He also likes to take guests on adventures. One afternoon Tobi, Kathy, and I waded through a channel of the Danube to a grassy island where we drank Weiselburger beer and relaxed in the sunshine. Another evening, he took us to the beautiful rooftop garden of a building that requires a special key (he has this key). We visit the Naschmarket which is full of mouthwatering food and the adjacent flea market which is full of delightful junk. Tobi buys a babushka candle and Sophie finds polka dot boxers for Tobi. I even attend a lecture about organic farming in Kenya at Tobis school, The University for Natural Resources and Applied Life Scienes. Whether it is political discussions with Rafael, enjoying rainbow and chocolate with Kathy, heart to hearts and hugs with Sophie, or laughing with Jacob, my new friends are super interesting and endlessly amusing. We linger over long breakfasts, randomly break into music sessions, and trade ridiculous insults for fun. Apparently, "Your momma doesnt cook with salt" is a pretty loaded phrase in Austria.

I like to play a game called "What happens if I get off on this metro stop?" Stop at Karlsplatz and hear the amplified opening chords of a song in nearby Ressel park. What is better than a free open-air concert? The stage for "Popfest" is set up beneath insanely gorgeous Karlskirche Church. And who is this spritely love child of Leslie Feist and Dolores O'Riordan supplying vocals and rhthym guitar? Her name is Clara Luzia. The band consists of Heidi on cello, Ines on drums, and Max on piano, guitar, and bass. I have plenty of time on my own to explore while my new friends attend classes or work. Transportation options include Vienna´s efficient u-bahn metro and the free tram around the ringstrasse, perfect for gawking at Viennas beautiful architecture. But my favorite is city bike. There are 61 city bike stations scattered throughout central Vienna. After registering with a credit card, you go to a station, swipe your card, and release an available bike. Rates are super reasonable and the first hour is free. After returning the bike to any vacant "bike box", you can wait 15 minutes and the free hour becomes available again. City bike is a fantastic idea and an enjoyable way to explore Vienna. One evening, I ride along the Danube canal to Volksprater, the amusement park east of the canal. The park is a home to a variety of so-tacky-its-cool attractions, such as the Jack the Ripper dark ride. On this Wednesday night, Volksprater is a ghost town devoid of rider´s shrieks or carnie´s calls. "Disneyland After People" I think to myself. I see people inside of snack shops with no customers watching television. A few people are strolling, smoking, and riding the park´s main attraction--the Risengrad (ferris wheel) The Risengrad factors into the plot of one of my favorite romantic movies, Before Sunrise, which was filmed at various locations throughout Vienna. I ride to the top and enjoy the view of Viennas city lights at night.

I could have stayed even longer in Vienna, but my flight from Prague to Amsterdam is quickly approaching on the 20th and there are a few more places I would like to see. Next stop, Olomouc in eastern Czech Republic!