On my last day in Malaysia, I visit the Batu Caves, about a thirty minute bus ride from Kuala Lumpur. This site is one of the most popular Hindu shrines outside of India and features the largest statue of the Hindu God Murugan in the world at 140 feet high. The first thing I see after climbing the nearly 300 steps to the cave's entrance is a gift shop which boasts "Om Nama Shivaya" bumper stickers, cave photo place mats, and a neon-lit photos of the Murugan statue singing a Hindi tune. As I sit on the marble steps of the Hindu temple, I watch monkeys scamper up the stalagmites (or is it stalagtites? I can never remember!) with their babies clinging to their fur. A man in a golden trimmed sarong chants inside the temple while tank-topped tourists cajole the monkeys with food into photo-worthy poses. The air smells of incense and monkey poo. One monkey tries to snatch my bag; another successfully steals Laura's orange drink!
Throughout the cave wood carvings of various Hindu gods loom over us. I notice two monks around my age, taking photos of them. Both wear the characteristic orange robe and one has a pair of knockoff Prada sunglasses perched on his head. I'm curious and want to talk to them but every guidebook I've ever read claims monks are not allowed to communicate with women according to their vinaya (code of conduct). But then, the one with the sunglasses walks up and introduces himself! I can't tell if his fellow monk is shy, unable to speak English, or both. We exchange pleasantries and I don't know what else to say so I say something cheesy like "enjoy your visit" and figure that is that.
But about half an hour later, while Laura and I are eating at an Indian restaurant at the base of the caves, the two monks stroll through the door. "Come join us!" I say and they do. Over the next hour Panna (pronounced "Panya") tells me interacting with women is fine; it is being alone with a woman in a secluded place that violates his oath as a monk. Panna has been a monk for the past 15 years since age 13! Monks do not have to assume this post forever but Pannna views it as a long term commitment. He is currently pursuing his masters in Buddhism here in Kuala Lumpur but hails from outside of Kandy, Sri Lanka. He studies Vipassana Buddhism which I am particularly interested in and I am delighted when he suggests exchanging email addresses so we can discuss the it further. On the bus ride back to KL, we talk about everything from the bogus monks posing in Chinatown to the precepts of Buddhism as applied to the monk verses the layperson. Before we part ways, Panna expresses his gratitude for our company. "No one has been friendly and willing to talk to us" he says "I am so happy to have met you and you are always welcome in Sri Lanka!" By the time I made it back to the hostel I already had a message from him: "Very nice to meet you and you friend. You are so friendly. I like you people. And have a nice journey to Thailand." --Panna
Throughout the cave wood carvings of various Hindu gods loom over us. I notice two monks around my age, taking photos of them. Both wear the characteristic orange robe and one has a pair of knockoff Prada sunglasses perched on his head. I'm curious and want to talk to them but every guidebook I've ever read claims monks are not allowed to communicate with women according to their vinaya (code of conduct). But then, the one with the sunglasses walks up and introduces himself! I can't tell if his fellow monk is shy, unable to speak English, or both. We exchange pleasantries and I don't know what else to say so I say something cheesy like "enjoy your visit" and figure that is that.
But about half an hour later, while Laura and I are eating at an Indian restaurant at the base of the caves, the two monks stroll through the door. "Come join us!" I say and they do. Over the next hour Panna (pronounced "Panya") tells me interacting with women is fine; it is being alone with a woman in a secluded place that violates his oath as a monk. Panna has been a monk for the past 15 years since age 13! Monks do not have to assume this post forever but Pannna views it as a long term commitment. He is currently pursuing his masters in Buddhism here in Kuala Lumpur but hails from outside of Kandy, Sri Lanka. He studies Vipassana Buddhism which I am particularly interested in and I am delighted when he suggests exchanging email addresses so we can discuss the it further. On the bus ride back to KL, we talk about everything from the bogus monks posing in Chinatown to the precepts of Buddhism as applied to the monk verses the layperson. Before we part ways, Panna expresses his gratitude for our company. "No one has been friendly and willing to talk to us" he says "I am so happy to have met you and you are always welcome in Sri Lanka!" By the time I made it back to the hostel I already had a message from him: "Very nice to meet you and you friend. You are so friendly. I like you people. And have a nice journey to Thailand." --Panna
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