Siem Reap

It's a few hours into my journey from Phomn Pehn to Siem Reap when I smell burning plastic. I see what looks like smoke near the mounted television in the left hand corner. I motion to the bus attendant and express my concern by pointing to the smoke. He pats the t.v. and says it's "no problem." For awhile I am convinced the bus will burst into flames or I will suffocate from smoke inhalation but eventually the smell and the smoke ceases. I never do find out what the issue was. Out my window, people toil in green fields and shacks of with wood or grass walls sit on stilts. listen to my ipod nearly full-volume in an attept to drown out our driver's incessant honking. During the 7 hour trip, he honks to signal his approach to overtake each vehicle by learning on the horn for several seconds. At a pit stop for food, I survey the scene. Monks smoke and check cell phones while goats feast on a pile of trash. Women sell snacks wrapped in plastic bags hanging from an awning. I order rice with spinach, bamboo shoots, egg, herbs, and chili sauce. It's delicious.

The vibe in Siem Reap is definitely lighter than when we were in Phomn Pehn. (Although after visiting the Killing Fields and an infamous prison, your mood can really only improve.) Due to it's proxmity to the famous temples of Angkor Wat, Siem Reap is a town with numerous tourist-oriented services from upscale hotels to westernized restaurants. Laura and I choose Smiley's guesthouse for $8. This buys us two single beds, a couch, coffee table, tv, clean bathroom, fan, and a narrow balcony. Once you get outside of the tourist cluster of hotels, massage parlors, and internet shops the road gives way to holey, dilapidated shanties. Merchants sell fruit from wheeled carts while children play near litter-strewn buildings on dusty side streets. An official holding a nightstick paces outside a minimart. I watch a man wash his dishes with a stiff blue brush in the muddy river.

In the evening, we explore the gigantic night market. Merchants entice with an array of items and services including scarves, paintings, bootlegged guidebooks, and 20 minutes in a tank of fish that eat the dead skin off your toes (we didn't inuldge). Six landmine amputee victims play music behind a sign requesting a donation. As we stroll through the corridors, I hear "Hey Lady, you buy something? Good price for you." My two most successful bargining techniques are as follows: 1) Always be willing to walk away if your price is not accepted. Many times it will be as soon as you turn to leave. 2) Put only the amount you want to spend on an item in your wallet and the rest in a separate place. Apologize to the vendor and say this is all you have on you. Many will take that amount rather than lose a sale entirely. I am always polite in my negotiations with merchants but I'm not ridden with guilt over offering low prices. They will never sell to you at a loss.

The next morning we depart the guesthouse promptly at 5:15am with Hinda. Hinda is the tuk tuk driver we hired for the day to tour the temples of Angkor Wat. The cool early morning wind whips through my hair as we race toward the temples. For those of you unfamiliar, Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument in the world. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ankor_Wat. Ankor Wat is the number one tourist destination in Cambodia and this is apparent as soon as we arrive and see the droves of people milling about. I escape to a quiet spot further away and watch the sunrise over the five towers. My experience at Angkor Wat is mixed. On one hand, the temples are undeniably beautiful. I enjoyed clambering up steep stairs, viewing ruins intertwined with trees, and admiring the intricate details carved into the rock. Upon entering one particular pagoda, we were instructed to thump our chests seven times for good luck. When we did, the sound echoed like a drum! The downside to this beautiful, amazing, site is with millions of visitors come scores of people trying to sell you things. After each temple they would gather around you. "You want cold drink/ t-shirt/ bracelet/ " or whatever other trinkets they happened to have. I understand they are making a living but it is also draining to always have to firmly say "No" and walk away every time. After eight hours of temple touring, we told Hinda we were ready to head back to Siem Reap! Still, I am glad we had the opportunity to visit Angkor Wat!