Can Tho

Upon entering the most disgusting bathroom of my life (hole dark brown from recent deposit, wet floor, clammy air, adjacent to a cement block filled with dead flies floating on top of putrid water) I discover a rottweiler is chained in the stall next door, barking ferociously. Laura, outside, says he's chained but neither of us is sure how long the chain is. I peek from behind the door and see his snarling snout to my left. Terrified, I take a deep breath, open the door, and sprint toward the van. He barks in a frenzy, teeth gnashing but the metal chain pulls tight. Thank God!

The remainder of the journey from Chau Doc to Can Tho is a madcap adventure filled with several moments of "air time" where my butt lifts off my seat. At one point, our van nearly collides with a red bus. Driving in Vietnam is on the right, but you would never know it we spend so much time in the left lane passing other vehicles, only returning to the right lane to avoid on-coming traffic at the last second. "Isn't this insane?" I comment to the French girl next to me in the very back row. "It's ok" she returns "If we get hit it will only crush the ones in front."

We finally arrive in Can Tho and decide to sooth our nerves with a massage. Wanting to contribute money to a good cause, we choose a place that employs blind massage therapists. As Laura and I received our massages, I felt a bit awkward at first but the massage was great and I quickly gave into the relaxation.

The next morning, Laura, Tobias, and Katya depart for a boat trip of the floating markets (boats where merchants sell and trade produce). I stay behind due to tummy trouble and at first I am really disappointed. This is THE attraction in Can Tho, how can I miss it? But 6 hours straight on a boat with no bathroom access would be miserable. But after the cramping subsides, I end up having a nice day. I read, watch the BBC, drink copious amounts of water, chat with a friend, and before I know it I feel much better. On a lengthy trip like this, slowing down sometimes is important.

Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong Delta. The city is one of the largest producers of rice, fruit, vegetables, and fish in Vietnam. Around 6am, it is as if someone flips a switch and Can Tho springs into action. Within the Huy Hoang Hotel, I hear people mill about the lobby, knock on doors, and clink their cutlery during breakfast. Motorcyles honk and someone begins hammering in the distance. Outside, people are everywhere--shopping, driving, spitting, eating, talking, sweating. My favorite time is around 10pm when the town quiets again. Fresh fruit juice in hand, I walk the riverfront under trees festooned with Christmas lights and past the golden statue of Ho Chi Mihn. Couples snuggle on benches as a few remaining boats meander down the Mekong.

As much as I love Asian food, I find some of the menu choices a little hard to stomach. Try these on for size:

Cowtail and hooves stewed with citronella
sweet and sour fish stomach
fried rat
crispy breaded frog
snake with vegetables

The snakes live in a small terrarium behind the tables. A Dutch guy named announces he has ordered the snake and wants me to try some. Well, when in Rome right? I grip a small piece with chopsticks and place it in my mouth. It tastes like the spicy sauce it's bathed in but I can also detect some scaliness on my tongue. Robert says he's ordering fried rat for dinner but I decline participation this time! After my culinary bravery, I allow myself to be lazy and order lasanga for dinner and a banana pancake for breakfast at a place called Cappuccino. Although I love the asian staples of noodles and rice, I need a break!