Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Great Ocean Road

Our tour of the Great Ocean Road through Australia's Victoria region begins with a stop in the town of Anglesea. The helpful ladies at the visitor center told us the local golf course is known for it's kangaroos that roam the course! We were skeptical but decide to check it out. Ambling along the walkway next to the green we suddenly see two of them relaxing in the shade. Fifty meters ahead there are a dozen more--young, adult, and some are tagged. A few are sitting on their haunches, others are sprawled on the ground, and some are using their small paws to scratch themselves. I stare at them and and they stare back at me. Then a large lawnmower roars nearby and several kangaroos hop across the green to another cluster of trees. Two golfers walk by unfazed. Laura and I laugh--we definitely never expected to see wildlife on a golf course!

We drive further until we reach the Grey River Road near Kennet River. We were told the eucalyptus trees here contained koala bears. I thought it would be relatively easy to spot them, but someone else has to help me locate him. Suddenly, I see him! I watch in awe at this koala perched in the crook of two branches proceeds to urinate, soaking the tree trunk below him. The second koala sits in the lowest tree branch, just above my head. I marvel at his brown-gray body, beige colored chest, and fuzzy ears. He sits motionless for a several minutes then begins to grasp eucalyptus leaves with his black leathery palms and push them into his mouth! I see a few others along this route, but the proximity to the second one was the most special! We head to Apollo Bay and settle on a caravan park near the river to camp.

The next morning wake up early (partly out of excitement for what experiences the day might bring but mostly because it's cold and difficult to sleep on the ground). We stop for a hike at Maits Rest. This ancient rainforest is full of Myrtle Beech trees covered with lime-green moss and anchored by elaborate, twisted root systems. The whole walk has the aura of a fairytale land. On our way to the next site we see an echidna by the side of the road. This animal is also known as aspiny anteater and looks like it with its coarse hair and long snout.

Most of the afternoon is spent gawking at the "Twelve Apostales" in Port Campell National Park. These freestanding limestone towers formed due to erosion and stand as a dramatic contrast to the ocean and steep cliffs. This entire area has been host to enough shipwrecks during the nineteenth century to earn it the moniker of "Shipwreck Coast"

We decide to stay in Port Fairy just beyond the end of the Great Ocean Road. The hostel here is an adorable Victorian cottage-- from its decorative cast iron door to the shabby-chic lounge area and fireplace. My bed is the top bunk atop a wooden ladder that makes me feel as if I am in a treehouse. Walking around town, I admire the earth-toned building with their faded signs and roam the rows of the Ironbird Bookshop. I indulge in a kiwi fruit tart at Remella's cafe before heading back to relax after a busy day.

SIGN OF THE DAY: Seen outside a fish and chips shop in Port Campbell

"Could you please not feed the seagulls as they s*** everywhere and sometimes it lands in your food. Thank you."

PS: Although my camera is broken, we are taking pictures with Laura's camera until I get a new one. Eventually the post-Sydney ones will make it on the blog

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