The five of us (Dave had to work) take a two-hour train ride to Katoomba--the nearest town to Blue Mountains National Park. We fuel up for our hike with lunch at Gardner's Inn then walk through Katoomba toward the trailhead. Given that I live near gorgeous mountains in Jackson Hole, I didn't expect to be blown away by this area. Then we approach the lookout at the trailhead and I see sandstone cliffs surrounding the longest and widest green-treed gorge I have ever seen. The wind blows the waterfall to my right into a mist so fine it looks like smoke drifting past the rock face. We laugh because it takes us awhile to even begin the hike we are so wrapped up in the initial view.
We decide to hike to Pulpit Rock, an approximately 3 hour roundtrip day hike. The hike itself is easy and enjoyable with little change in elevation. At one point, we hop on rocks to cross a river and I am glad I wore my hiking sandals instead of running shoes that would be sopping by now. Halfway through, I see a thin, jagged piece of rock protruding from the side of the mountain. I am both afraid and thrilled by heights and I have to have a closer look. I gingerly climb out on it, look down into the depths below, and feel a sense of vertigo. When we reach Pulpit Rock, I am again tempted by the lure of heights. I climb on the metal railing and manage to completely stand up and survey the vastness below. As I have thought of several times during the trip, pictures can't capture this. The experience of having all your senses engaged at once because you are actually in this wild place. I see the sun-exposed and shadowed cliffs, feel and taste air on the brink of rain, and listen to the silence. The Blue Mountains were my favorite part of our time in Sydney.
A few days later, Isaac, Laura, and I play music at the Excelsior Hotel in the Surry Hills neighborhood. Isaac plays under the same SheBlondeSwede and is there promoting his EP called The Shopping Cart. Laura has been performing within the San Diego music scene for years and made a cd title Along for the Ride. Both are very talented musicians. I don't have a cd nor have I played to an audience in ages. But I have said for awhile now that I would like to get back into performing like I did when I was living in San Diego so here's an opportunity. I stay home to practice for a few hours while they roam the city.
We arrive at a small bar furnished with wooden tables and leather couches. Very chill. Isaac plays the majority of the time and Laura and I each play a small set of covers and originals. I am especially moved by Isaac's song "Lovin You" and his cover of "Romeo & Juliet" by the Dire Straights. Laura wrote a new song titled "Ohio" that tugs at my heart too. After my performance, I am told my voice sounded great but my stage presence was a bit subdued---I needed to let go more. As you know, I am not shy but I do actually get nervous performing when I both sing and play guitar! Only plenty of practice and experience can tame those butterflies! We enjoy the rest of the evening over a jug of Fat Yak and listening to the final band of the evening, The Sign. It's members, Jo and Paul are from Tasmania and Jo's voice is an even growlier Janis Joplin! Heading home, we get caught in a rainstorm and laugh at how soaked we are by the time we reach the train.
The next day ends up being all about delicious food. For "brekkie" as Australians say it, I enter Savta where the man recommends the Israeli omlette. I'm starving and spring for it. I find a table outside and pour myself a glass of water from a chilled glass bottle while I wait. My meal arrives and I tuck into it. Chopped cucumbers and tomatoes are nestled against a cheese and herb infused omlette. My favorite part is a dollop of thick lemon-tinged yogurt called "labne" atop an olive oil and thyme mixture named "zatar" which I spread on my turkish toast. Yum!
I buy a Daytripper pass for today's transportation. For $18, you get access on most of the trains, buses, and ferries throughout Sydney for 24 hours. We bus to Watson's Bay to walk along the coast and meet Isaac's friend, Lauren. Lauren works at Funky Pies, a vegan pie joint, so we decide to try it. I order a spinach and onion pie and the flaky crust is excellent. After our late lunch, we wanted to take a ferry from Watson's Bay but realize we missed the last one. Instead, we bus to Circular Quay (a downtown transportation hub) and hop on a yellow ferry bound for North Sydney. I relax and watch the Sydney skyline float by. We pass the Harbor Bridge and see a group of people ascending it. This activity is popular with tourists but costs several hundred dollars. If it included a bungy jump I might be interested but I didn't want to pay that just for the climb itself. We pass the Prime Minister's house with its regal columns and pristine gardens. The last stop before we turn around is Mosman Ave. This area is tranquil with boasts bobbing in the water and opulent old houses surrounding the harbor. Several have balconies that wrap around the entire length of the second story. I love balconies. :)
The highlight of the day is our dinner at Italian restaurant Fratelli Fresh. Up to this point, I have not really indulged in a high end dining experience in Australia. Being a budget traveler, food is an easy cost to cut if you live on grocery store runs and sandwiches. But this is our last night in Sydney so Isaac, Dave, Laura, and I are going to splurge! We walk past the sex shops, tattoo parlors, and the colorful characters of King's Cross until it gives way to the more urbane district of Potts Point. Fratelli Fresh displays their menu on a large blackboard each based on the ingredients they have on hand that day. Our appetizers are mozzarella topped tomato slices brocollini, and crispy polenta with oyster mushrooms and gorgonzola sauce. Oh my god. The combination is goose-bump inducing and we make quick work of it. My main dish is farfalle pasta with asparagus, spinach, and percorino. Laura orders a risotto, Dave a slightly spicy penne, and Isaac a really spicy gnocchi. After savoring our own dishes we decide to rotate to the right several times to experience everyone else's. It's agreed that all the dishes are delicious, but Laura's risotto with it's delicate vegetables and shredded gorgonzola cheese takes first prize. We bask in the luxury of it all, sipping Sangiovese and talking about topics as intelligent as our favorite N.P.R. program to as cheesy as how much we truly love the band Hall & Oates. We toast each other and a wonderful time in Sydney!
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